Land in Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee airport (ATQ) by 8am and taxi straight to the Golden Temple (Harmandir Sahib) on Golden Temple Road. Entry is free; leave shoes at the counter and cover your head. Queue for the langar hall where 100,000 people eat daily on a volunteer-run rotation. Walk the parikrama clockwise, then cross to Jallianwala Bagh next door for the 1919 memorial. Lunch at Kesar Da Dhaba in Chowk Passian, open since 1916, thali around $4.
Book a car by 3pm for the 30 km run to Attari-Wagah. The Beating Retreat ceremony starts at 5:15pm in winter, 6:15pm in summer, and seating fills 90 minutes prior. Tourist stands are free; VIP seats near the gate cost about $2. Back in Amritsar by 8pm, dinner at Bharawan Da Dhaba on Town Hall Road for stuffed kulchas and dal makhani, around $6 a head.
Take the 6:20am Shatabdi Express from Amritsar Junction to Chandigarh, 4 hours, chair car around $12. From the station auto-rickshaw to Sector 17 for breakfast at Sindhi Sweets. Spend the afternoon at Le Corbusier's Capitol Complex (book the free tour at Tourism Office in Sector 17 the day before) and Nek Chand's Rock Garden, entry $0.50. Fly out from Chandigarh (IXC) by 8pm.
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