The top four
1) All About Kulcha, Ranjit Avenue — the amritsari kulcha benchmark, $2 including chole and chutney. Go 8–10am before the tandoor cools. 2) Ahuja Milk Bhandar — the lassi standard everyone measures against, $1.50 for a glass that qualifies as a meal. Since 1955. 3) Kanha Sweets, Lawrence Road — kachori-chole at $1, best breakfast in the city.
4) Beera Chicken House, Majith Mandi — the tandoori chicken that made the city's reputation, $6 half plate.
Five through nine
5) Bhrawan Da Dhaba — chole bhature at $2, since 1912, still uses coal fires. 6) Novelty Sweets — the jalebi to end all jalebis, 50 cents. 7) Giani Tea Stall, near Town Hall — kulhad chai at 20 cents. 8) Surjit Food Plaza — sit-down street food, tikka is the order. 9) Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner — the fried fish standard, $4 a portion.
Skip: anything on Heritage Street calling itself a food court. The good stalls are outside the tourist zone.
Questions, answered
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