7am start at Nehru Rose Garden, 27 acres and 1,600 varieties, quiet before the joggers leave. 9am breakfast at Crystal Restaurant on Bhai Bala Chowk — a working-class institution since 1958, parantha and lassi for $3. 10:30am Punjab Agricultural University museum, genuinely one of India's best rural-life collections, $2 entry.
12:30pm Guru Nanak Bhawan Dev University stop-in if architecture interests you. 1:30pm lunch at Pind Balluchi in Sarabha Nagar — full Punjabi thali for $8.
3pm hosiery shopping at Chaura Bazaar — Ludhiana produces 90% of India's woolens and the wholesale prices are absurd. Sweaters at $4, blankets at $10. 5pm Punjab Agricultural University demonstration farm walk. 7pm sundowner at Radisson Blu rooftop. 8:30pm dinner at Sagar Ratna for a break from Punjabi food, or Gulati's for the local kebab benchmark.
One day is enough. If you have two, add a morning trip to Jagraon or Payal for rural Punjab that has not been paved over.
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